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Return of the enfant terrible of Irish cuisine
"In any other city in the world, Mint would have been a roaring success, but the fact that we went bang so hard against the wall -- that's what crippled us. We were so small, only 37 covers and the banks were shut down,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], who else had those circumstances to deal with?" he said.
"And I do want to go back some time to it. We only have two or three amazing restaurants in Ireland and we should have more of them. But we need innovative, affordable places to eat in as well. For now, it's about the recession and me growing as a chef.
"I wouldn't do another restaurant like Mint in this climate, but I'm not going anywhere and I believe Ireland will come out of this and I believe we'll come back to a day where Ireland will permit me to cook at the level I cooked at before."
The feisty chef, who was as renowned for his controversial comments as his cooking, hit the headlines after becoming one of the youngest chefs to win a Michelin star in 2008 at the age of 30 for Ranelagh restaurant Mint.
However, he became one of the high-profile casualties of the recession just over a year later when the venture went belly-up. But the former enfant terrible has now returned with a new George's Street venture -- and insists he's a reformed character. It's a long way from when he raised eyebrows for his hot-tempered RTE documentary, Pressure Cooker,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], where he turned the air blue in the kitchen.
"I have mellowed, definitely. When I first came back to Ireland, I didn't want it to wear me down because it's a very laid- back place. That was an hour documentary about me driving a football team to win a star in a very small space of time and when I got it,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], I wanted the other one quick," he continued.
"A lot of people told me I couldn't do it, but I had blinkers on and I wasn't going to be told that it wasn't going to happen. However, once the economy hit, it was the harsh reality of 'have we backed the wrong horse?'
"Of course I'm still going to drive [my staff]. The boys are coming to work with me for their careers. I've got 10 chefs here and I'm teaching them and of course I'm going to drive them,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych].
"I'm not going to say,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], 'oh no,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], I don't do that any more', but I am looser and more relaxed because it's nothing like the intensity of Mint because that was [Michelin] stars for price, it was about business. If you're going to charge 35 for a starter, you have to be at that level gastronomically to compete in Europe."
And he won't be going all out to entice a circle of celebrity clientele to his southside restaurant. "No, I've been there, done that. I've had them all, cooked for them all, and a restaurant right now needs to be accessible to different types of people.
"I want to do my version of chicken wings because I'm in Dublin and Dubs love chicken wings. I want to be able to do stuff where you can come in and have a really good burger. It's not Mint, but that doesn't mean I can't make sure your burger's really great. It doesn't mean I have to compromise on my standards."
He has gone right back to basics for his new venture, which he describes as a 'steak restaurant',[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but with a large variety of options as well as introducing 'hot stone cooking' for customers. With space for 120 people and starters costing from as little as 3.95,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], it's clear the chef has learned from his mistakes. He has also taken a lot of inspiration from his health-conscious girlfriend Erika Doolan to create a figure-friendly menu -- and he also hopes the fact that he's now back on his feet will send out a beacon of hope to other recession-hit Irish businesses.
"I did want to run a mile initially and I thought, Ireland's screwed, are we going to end up like Russia or Poland? I did stand back to see will our country climb out of this and I think we are going to be okay," he said.
"I know it's really tough out there. It was tough for me, my work was gone, my earnings, my livelihood was gone. You have to dust yourself off and see how you adapt and send out a positive message that we're still trying and we're going to fight back. As a country, we need to do that.
"Even with all the begrudgery out there among Irish people,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], maybe if we watch each other squirming a little bit and being knocked on our asses,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], we can lose some of that begrudgery. Maybe it's part of our healing, if we step back and go 'how do we get back on that horse?'"
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