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Posted: Mon 16:57, 16 Sep 2013 Post subject: Oliver Spencer-spun2 |
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Oliver Spencer
Conservative yet innovative by using it, Oliver Spencer's excellent clothes, shoes and sundries successfully strike an especially tricky balance. Have a mooch round his shop or website and there's plenty that at first sight seems comfortingly - if pulse-slowingly - familiar. The £130 "Worker Trouser" looks like a plain set of straight-leg strides (is available in three colours) with a premium pricetag,[url=http://giuseppezanottisneakerssale.webmium.com/][b]http://giuseppezanottisneakerssale.webmium.com/[/b][/url], the £270 "Signalman's Jacket" appears like just another passenger about the quilted bandwagon,[url=http://peutereyjacketsuppliers.webmium.com/][b]Peuterey Jacket[/b][/b][/url], and also the "Harris Crew" jumper (£130) appears to be well, an ordinary blue jumper.
Look closer though, and also the interest ratchets up. That jacket has a rounded, nehru-collar instead of the usual pointy version, along with a quirkily rounded patch-pocket about the breast. The jumper happens to be crazily patterned, however in two shades of blue so deep you only notice it close up. And people plain-looking trousers would be the result, says Spencer,[url=http://duveticadoudoune.halod.com/][b]Doudoune Duvetica[/b][/url], of nearly ten years' price of tweaking. "It needs time to work to get the pitch and fit just right," he explained mid-mooch: "You know your favourite set of trousers,[url=http://peutereyjacketsuppliers.webmium.com/][b]Peuterey Jacket outlet[/b][/url], whenever you put them on and the rise and fit is just perfect? That is what we're trying to make and it's only within the last year or two we've cracked it."
Spencer, now 43 and this month pipped towards the British Fashion Award for best menswear designer by Kim Jones (of Louis Vuitton), was created in Coventry and started in the rag-trade selling used clothes on Portobello Road. His Damascene moment came when working in a weaver's mill he discovered a warehouse full of gaudy,[url=http://peutereyjacketsuppliers.webmium.com/][b]Peuterey outlet[/b][/url], sunglasses-necessary fabrics - all rejected bolts made for Ecclesiastical clothing. These he used to make waistcoats,[url=http://giuseppezanottisneakers.webmium.com/][b]giuseppe zanotti sneakers on sale[/b][/url], (they starred on Simon Callow in Four Weddings Along with a Funeral) which led to the growth of Favourbrook, a jazzy wedding-and evening wear company depending on Jermyn Street.
His eponymous label, started in 2002,[url=http://giuseppezanottisneakerssale.webmium.com/][b]giuseppe zanotti men's sneakers Giuseppe Zanotti Official Outlet Shoes for Sale[/b][/url], may be the downstairs to Favourbrook's up. There aren't any suits here (and no tailcoats) even though ostentatiously bespectacled architects and designers who haunt the original Oliver Spencer shop in Bloomsbury like to pair those "Worker" trousers with matching,[url=http://peutereyjacketsuppliers.webmium.com/][b]peuterey womens jacket[/b][/url], three-buttoned twill "Portland" jackets (£290). Yet although informal, the nerdy fastidiousness of Spencer's mania for little details means the garments look not sloppy.
He said: "I believe that British men do care about their clothing, and enjoy knowing a bit about this too. You cannot insult your customer by thinking he's not going to be able to tell the difference between good, thought-out clothes and clothes that are made lazily." Now it is not just British men who are discovering Spencer: he has shops in New York and Ontario, and sells well in France. And a week ago a just-flown-in Chinese customer tootled as much as the shop on the Boris bike,[url=http://woolrichdeutschlandarcticparka.albirank.net/][b]woolrich deutschland[/b][/url], to purchase a £790 made-in-Somerset sheepskin jacket he'd seen online in between business meetings.
Possibly the best compliment to Spencer is that his quirky workwear styles are "homaged" about the high-street rapidly and frequently. And that's while he makes clothes for men who wish to seem like they can fit in without having to sacrifice the pleasure of being bold,[url=http://wheretobuyrogerviviershoes.webmium.com/][b]http://wheretobuyrogerviviershoes.webmium.com/[/b][/url], just a little bit, too.
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